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Tea Tree Oil

A botanical with real antibacterial activity against acne, and real sensitising potential at the strengths people use undiluted.

INCI: Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil · Also known as Melaleuca oil

What it does

Tea tree oil has been studied for mild to moderate acne and shows genuine antibacterial effect — slower than benzoyl peroxide, but with fewer complaints about dryness in the studies that compared them.

The problem is how it is used. Applying it neat from the bottle to a spot is common advice and a good way to sensitise yourself; oxidised tea tree oil in particular is a known allergen. Diluted to a few percent in a formulated product is the sensible route.

It is also an essential oil, which means it belongs on the list of things to avoid if fragrance and botanicals irritate you.

In a routine

Layers well with

  • Niacinamide

Do not layer with

  • Retinol
  • Exfoliating acids

Same routine is fine for some pairs — same step is the problem. Split them morning and evening when in doubt.

Tea Tree Oil questions

Can I put tea tree oil directly on a spot?

Better not. Undiluted essential oil is a common sensitiser, and oxidised tea tree oil more so. Use a product that has diluted it properly.

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