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Peptides

Short chains of amino acids marketed as collagen signals. Well tolerated, plausible mechanism, modest and inconsistent real-world evidence.

INCI: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 · Also known as Matrixyl, Signal peptides, Copper peptides

What it does

Peptides are fragments of proteins intended to signal skin to behave in a particular way — most commonly to produce more collagen. The mechanism is plausible and the ingredients are gentle, which is why they appear everywhere in the premium end of the market.

The honest position is that the evidence is far weaker than for retinoids, sunscreen or vitamin C, and that "peptide" describes a huge, uneven family rather than one ingredient. Some are well studied; many are in a product because the word sells.

They are a reasonable addition for people who cannot tolerate retinoids, and a poor substitute for the basics if you can.

In a routine

Layers well with

  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic acid
  • Ceramides

Peptides questions

Do peptides actually work?

Some have decent supporting data, many do not, and the category is far behind retinoids and sunscreen in evidence. Treat them as a gentle addition rather than the core of a routine.

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