What it does
Urea is unusual in that its behaviour changes with concentration. Below about 10% it acts as a humectant, drawing and holding water. Above that it starts breaking down keratin, which is why 20–40% formulations are used on rough heels, elbows and thickened skin.
It is a natural component of the skin’s own moisturising factor, which is why it is so well tolerated on the face at low percentages.
On compromised or freshly exfoliated skin, higher-strength urea can sting. Match the concentration to the job.
In a routine
Layers well with
- Ceramides
- Glycerin
- Panthenol
