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Exfoliant

Salicylic Acid

An oil-soluble exfoliant that gets inside pores. The standard choice for blackheads and congestion, and easy to overdo.

INCI: Salicylic Acid · Also known as BHA, Beta hydroxy acid

What it does

Because salicylic acid is oil-soluble, it can penetrate sebum and exfoliate inside the pore rather than only on the surface. That is what makes it the go-to for blackheads, closed comedones and generally congested skin, and why it outperforms surface acids for those specific problems.

It is also anti-inflammatory, which helps with the redness around active spots. Two to three uses a week is enough for most people. Daily use, stacked with a scrub and a cleansing brush, is how people arrive at a stripped, stinging barrier and conclude their skin is "sensitive".

Leave-on products at 2% do more than a cleanser at the same strength, simply because contact time matters more than concentration.

In a routine

Layers well with

  • Niacinamide
  • Ceramides
  • Hyaluronic acid

Do not layer with

  • Retinol
  • Glycolic acid
  • Benzoyl peroxide

Same routine is fine for some pairs — same step is the problem. Split them morning and evening when in doubt.

Salicylic Acid questions

Salicylic acid or glycolic acid for blackheads?

Salicylic. It is oil-soluble so it works inside the pore, where blackheads actually are. Glycolic acid works on the surface and does more for tone and texture.

How often should I use it?

Two or three times a week in a leave-on product is plenty for most skin. Increase only if your skin is genuinely comfortable.

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